Terry Sayther said:After a consultation here, we think a used ABS control unit would transfer to your car, and would not need programming to work. In fact it can only be programmed once, so it will stay programmed to it's original car.
That won't matter, though since they are similar cars. It will have to be coded, a lesser issue. I wouldn't be afraid to do it on my own car.Thanks Terry,I tried Autoenginuity software to attemp to bump the pump and open the valves, but those options were not available for the 2007 328, so I filled all lines and the ABS unit with brake fluid, and power bled the entire system.Brakes felt great, hard pedal, not mushy. I reinstall the old control module on the new used pump, since all codes were indicating a bad pump motor, and bad pump motor connector.Now after driving around today, all lights are cleared and it seems to be working properly.This has me wondering, because the codes wouldn't clear using a GT1 the day before and now they cleared on their own.No telling how long this used pump sat on the shelf. I got it at Lonestar Auto Parts here in Houston TX.
This is a Repair and Return service of your existing ABS Brake Control Module. You will need to remove and send your module to us for repair. Upon purchase of this service, we will e-mail you shipping labels and shipping instructions.Common failures: Loss of communication, pump or solenoid failures, wheel speed sensor issues.Your ABS module will be remanufactured in our facility by our qualified and trained technicians using approved parts and methods. The quality testing of your Module throughout the repair process conforms with the standard’s stringent requirementsYour Module is also covered by our.When you buy from XeMODeX, you are buying a proven, quality product that stands the test of time.Plug and Play installation. Your ABS Module will not require any software reload. Basic Configurations settings will not be alteredAPPLICATION::For BMW E-4 3-SeriesREFERENCE NUMBERS:6751768 768 7.
Pre requisites: 1 - Decent diagnostic cable and software. I HIGHLY recommend Jimmy is a fantastically helpful and friendly guy who is always on hand to help.After installing this software I was able to ascertain the following fault codes: 5DF0, 5DF1 “DSC: Hydraulic unit: pump motor connector faulty'. Apparently this is almost always down to a fault in the pump/module (as was mine) I used ECUtesting to have mine rebuilt: Also the software is required for the brake bleed procedure and calibration of the steering wheel sensor and DSC/ABS unit. 2 - Pressure brake bleeder 3 - Jack and axle stands. The ABS pump/module is located on the drivers side, towards the back of the engine bay under the brake servo.
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Although the the pump looks relatively easy to access from the top of the engine bay, there are obstructions including the brake lines, which would make it very difficult to lift out this way. DON'T FORGET! There is a cable tidy clip attached to the wheel housing (see picture annotation for location). From within the wheel arch, push on the back of the clip to pop out it from the wheel housing.Once all of the retaining bolts and rivets are out, the housing should only be retained by a lip in the wheel arch. Rather than trying to release the housing working around the outside of the wheel arch lip, I found it much easier to grab either side of the wheel housing from the back and pull it into itself the (flexing the two sides of the housing closer together). This is helps to gain enough clearance to remove out of the arch.Once the housing is off, access to the pump becomes a lot easier.
Now the black cradle that holds the pump in place can be clearly seen. The cradle is retained by one bolt and sits ‘floating’ on two pillars with rubber mounts.
The back of the cradle retaining bolt can be seen poking out into the wheel arch, unbolt this from the other side, inside of the engine bay. With the brake lines released, it allows more manoeuvrability, as it is quite tricky to remove the unit. The cradle now needs to be manipulated and gently eased upwards off the two mounting pillars. If the electrical connector is still attached, it might make things harder. However if the cradle and unit is lifted off the pillars, pull it out gently into the arch to gain access to the electrical connector. Again do remember that on the top is a tab that needs to be fully pulled upwards, to eject the connector. On mine this was a little stiff and I found that the securing tab needed to be pulled almost fully out, before it would release from the pump.With the pump out it can be unbolted from the black cradle.
One hex bolt on the side and two under. The picture shows how the cradle looks and how the pump comes together to ‘seat’ in the cradle.
Hey guys,After predominantly owning VAG cars, I finally bought an E90 325i M Sport. I bought her a little on the cheap side as the “ABS light” was on. New to BMWs I had no software or way of fully diagnosing the problem at the time of sale, so I took a risk and thought it can’t be that bad to fix.After some research online I quickly realised that BMW diagnostic/coding software is not as user friendly as VAGCOM.
However I managed to purchase a package of BMW software (including cable) on eBay for about £55. This Included:.INPA Ediabas.ISTA (BMW Workshop diagnostics).SSS/Progman.TIS.NavCoder.NCS Expert.WinKFPAfter finally plugging the car in, I had an array of DSC unit errors. Ranging from pump pressures, VIN numbers not matching etc.By coincidence a few days later I had to move the sister in laws 118D.
When starting her car up, I noticed her dash had a lot more lights than mine. This got me thinking, why isn’t my dash the same.Long story short, after undertaking the instrument cluster light test, I noticed 2 bulbs were ‘broke’. On opening the dash, this is what I found:The previous owner taped over the handbrake and traction control lights! This was to try and hide the real issue on the car, and to play it off as an abs sensor or more minor fault.So after more research, the 3 lights of death pretty much indicated to me I needed a new pump or to get mine repaired.
No problem right? After more research, I discovered the pump fitted to the car was the wrong one! My car needed ABS Pump 6777162, where I had a different number fitted So I decided to try and source the correct pump and fit it. For 2 months I rang up scrap yards and breakers constantly, no one could get me one. This pump is rare! I then decided to ring BMW to see what the damage would be for a new pump, they quoted me £1700 ex vat.
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Software house porto recanati new york. I asked them could I get another pump to work, which they responded no. They told me the ECUs would not be compatible (take note here.BMW ‘plug and play’ mechanics aren’t always correct).I was adamant that another pump could work on the car.
As long as the pump ECU could speak to the ECU on the car and was designed for the weight and brakes fitted. BMW have 2 main style of ABS pumps, 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder pumps. My thinking was that if I get a similar 6 cylinder BMW E90 around the same age, there is a good chance the manufactured ECUs would speak and hence would work.So I purchased a pump off a (same age) 335D – Part number 6777159. After initially plugging this into my car, there were no DSC Faults!
However whilst stationary, the speedo would fluctuate between 0-15mph and whilst driving the car would brake if i tried to drive over 20mph! I decided that pump was not suitable for the car!I then purchased a pump off a 2 year older 323i – Part Number 6775388. This pump was successfully installed and programmed to my car! So yes BMW it can be done! However getting to this stage was a bit of a headache.
Hence the reason I have written this post.Now I won’t go through fitting the ABS pump, as that is fairly simple: Disconnect the brake lines, bolts and unplug it. Reinstall new pump and bleed the system. The coding of the pump is what I struggled with.After installing the new pump, I had the following error codes:.Error Code 005DD2 - DSC: Hydraulic unit: adjustment, DSC unit (valves).Error Code 005DD0 - DSC: Hydraulic unit: adjustment, DSC unit (valves).Error Code 005E50 - DSC: Steering-angle sensor: serial number; calibration required.Error Code 005E1F - DSC: Control unit: incorrect vehicle identification number; calibration requiredAfter my research every forum says use SSS Progman or NCS Expert. So I decided to use NCS Expert first of all as it is most simple to use.When you have NCS Expert loaded with your car plugged in and ignition on. Select “File Load profile ExpertMode OK.
Then select your chassis by selecting F1, then selecting F3.It then asks which computer we want to code. Select one of the available options like CAS or EWS or LCM.
You then have to select “F6” to go back. This will then allow you which ECU you want to code.So for this case, we want the DSC module.
So select F4 and select it. Then select F2 job select, and make sure the job name is on SGCODIEREN and press okay.Then select F3 to process the car.
This in theory is how the new ECU is coded to the car. I however had no luck with this method.I then decided to use SSS Progman. This is a very simple piece of software which again pretty much does the coding for you.When you load the software, select New Session. Then click your interface and continue. Then select your car and model. Once loaded, click on ‘Load SW’. It will then ask you if you have replaced modules, select yes for the new pump.
The software will then list all the modules on your vehicle. Select DSC to code it. After clicking continue, the software will create a measure plan and try to process the recoding.However at this stage, my car failed as the software told me I had the wrong pump for the car and told me to replace the unit! SSS Progman will only work if you have the exact pump the car should have!After more research I discovered I could code my cars VIN number into the DSC pump by using some software called Tool32.Once you have plugged your car in and turned your ignition on, press F3 and choose your ABS module.
For me this was 'dsc87.prg'. This will then load a series of jobs. To code your VIN number into the ABS pump, look for the options called 'cfgschreiben' and 'cfgauftrag' in the left column.Once you find them, select 'cfgschreiben' and at ‘Argument’ type your car 17characters VIN and at the end put 1. So for example if your VIN is WBAVA71030VA22222 you will put 1 at the end and that should look like WBAVA71030VA222221Once you have typed it, press F5 and it's done. You should then select 'cfgauftrag' (If you have it) and press F5.This however did not work for me! After further research, I then discovered you have to calibrate your steering angle first to code in your VIN number.
This can also be done in Tool 32, so repeating the above processes in Tool32, then select 'lenkwinkel dsc abgleichen' (to select steering angle calibration) in the left column. Make sure your steering wheel is straight and type in your VIN into the arguments section again. Press F5 and your steering angle calibration, and VIN programming should be complete.Using Tool 32 should clear the following codes:.Error Code 005E50 - DSC: Steering-angle sensor: serial number; calibration required.Error Code 005E1F - DSC: Control unit: incorrect vehicle identification number; calibration requiredI was then left with the Hydraulic unit: adjustment, DSC unit (valves) fault codes!After more research, and with a bit of luck, I discovered a DSC pump calibration in ISTA.When you load ISTA, select your vehicle and undertake a ‘Vehicle Test’. After the diagnostic test is complete, your fault codes should display.
In the bottom right corner of the faults page, there will be a button saying ‘Calculate Test Plan’.When you click on this process, ISTA will work out the necessary actions to rectify the faults in your vehicle. So for the DSC valve adjustment, the software will recommend a pump calibration process (this can be undertaken in ISTA).Select continue with the pump calibration process. However at this stage, make sure the system is correctly bleed and installed. The software will then run the calibration process (this takes a few minutes). Assuming your pump is in working order, this should calibrate your pump and clear your fault codes.So after 3 months of owning the car and installing a few pumps, the ABS issue was solved! I was very happy to see the picture below.
![]() Bmw Abs Module Communication
No faults!Hopefully this will help some of you save some money off BMW dealers and enable you to install and recode used pumps/ECUs to your BMWs. Sounds like you had a nightmare from the start paying £50 for ipna which can be dowloaded free all u need to buy is a obd cable to fit or make one. I had mine replaced on my 330ci years ago. Sourced the part form breakers £50 installed,bled and vin number updated to match the cars ecu all done by my garage within 60 mins.I think they used autologic software at garage to update the vin but it didnt take long at all. A year or so after i read another post someone managed to get around coding by unplugging the battery first before taking the abs pump out so no coding was needed once new abs pump fiited and battery plugged back ingood write up though hope its all sorted now. Hi is there anyone out there that can help me. I have a Bmw 1 series 2008 i have just changed my DSC module as the last one was faulty.
I have got rid of most of the faults. But it has left 4 faults which are:5E505E3F5E1F5E2OI believe these are due to the vin not matching with the new unit and pressure sensor.
Does anyone know where I can get my DSC re-coded or is there anyone out there who can do it for me I don't mind paying. It's just starting to get me down, I am in the Birmingham area B34 thank you.RegardsMark Kirwan.
Hi is there anyone out there that can help me. I have a Bmw 1 series 2008 i have just changed my DSC module as the last one was faulty.
I have got rid of most of the faults. But it has left 4 faults which are:5E505E3F5E1F5E2OI believe these are due to the vin not matching with the new unit and pressure sensor. Does anyone know where I can get my DSC re-coded or is there anyone out there who can do it for me I don't mind paying. It's just starting to get me down, I am in the Birmingham area B34 thank you.RegardsMark KirwanDid you ever sort this out?
Pre requisites: 1 - Decent diagnostic cable and software. I HIGHLY recommend Jimmy is a fantastically helpful and friendly guy who is always on hand to help.After installing this software I was able to ascertain the following fault codes: 5DF0, 5DF1 “DSC: Hydraulic unit: pump motor connector faulty'. Apparently this is almost always down to a fault in the pump/module (as was mine) I used ECUtesting to have mine rebuilt: Also the software is required for the brake bleed procedure and calibration of the steering wheel sensor and DSC/ABS unit. 2 - Pressure brake bleeder 3 - Jack and axle stands. The ABS pump/module is located on the drivers side, towards the back of the engine bay under the brake servo.
Although the the pump looks relatively easy to access from the top of the engine bay, there are obstructions including the brake lines, which would make it very difficult to lift out this way. DON'T FORGET! There is a cable tidy clip attached to the wheel housing (see picture annotation for location). From within the wheel arch, push on the back of the clip to pop out it from the wheel housing.Once all of the retaining bolts and rivets are out, the housing should only be retained by a lip in the wheel arch.
Rather than trying to release the housing working around the outside of the wheel arch lip, I found it much easier to grab either side of the wheel housing from the back and pull it into itself the (flexing the two sides of the housing closer together). This is helps to gain enough clearance to remove out of the arch.Once the housing is off, access to the pump becomes a lot easier. Now the black cradle that holds the pump in place can be clearly seen. The cradle is retained by one bolt and sits ‘floating’ on two pillars with rubber mounts.
Bmw Abs Module Repair Cost
The back of the cradle retaining bolt can be seen poking out into the wheel arch, unbolt this from the other side, inside of the engine bay. With the brake lines released, it allows more manoeuvrability, as it is quite tricky to remove the unit. The cradle now needs to be manipulated and gently eased upwards off the two mounting pillars. If the electrical connector is still attached, it might make things harder.
However if the cradle and unit is lifted off the pillars, pull it out gently into the arch to gain access to the electrical connector. Again do remember that on the top is a tab that needs to be fully pulled upwards, to eject the connector. On mine this was a little stiff and I found that the securing tab needed to be pulled almost fully out, before it would release from the pump.With the pump out it can be unbolted from the black cradle.
One hex bolt on the side and two under. The picture shows how the cradle looks and how the pump comes together to ‘seat’ in the cradle.
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